May 17, 2011
How to Freshen Up Dress Pants

Slim Fit
Close-cut, flat-front trousers with a tab closure accentuate the waist; they look best with a fitted, tucked-in shirt, and without a belt.

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The Break
On straight-leg trousers, the hem should fall just at the top of your shoes and cover your socks when you take a step.
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Wool Flannel
A traditional fabric—one favored by the Duke of Windsor—is a fail-safe option for this kind of cut.
Embellished
There are rules to observe when it comes to trouser decoration. A pair of pants with a zip that discreetly edges the inside seam at the ankle is appropriate for a night out—elaborate pleats and appliqués are not
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Patterned
It takes considerable confidence to pull off bold prints—especially when it comes to pants. A pair in micro-checks, worn with a solid-colored crewneck sweater, makes a subtle statement.
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Cropped
In the fall, your abbreviated pants should have cuffs not wider than 1¾ inches. Opt for a substantial pair of oxfords and socks that are a tonal match with your trousers, not your shoes.
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Cotton
Swap out staid khakis for dark cotton pants with contrasting buttons on the front (limit two per pair). Complement them with a slim-cut, cropped jacket and bright white sneakers.
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Tapered
If you have a lithe build, you can add a pair of tapered pants to your lineup. Just make sure they’re cut close, not skintight. The layers you wear on top should be similarly trim.
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The Shoes
As much care should go into matching your shoes and pants as into matching food and wine. The perfect pair of lace-ups or loafers will create a line of continuity.
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The Belt
Proportions matter when it comes to belts, too. Wear a narrow one with extra-slim pants and a wide one with more generously cut trousers.
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Relaxed Fit
If you never embraced the skinny silhouette, make pants with a little wiggle room your mainstay. Choose loose-fitting pairs that sit right at the hips rather than hang below them.
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Pleats
Experimenting with excessive pleats is never a good idea—in fact, two is the ideal number. And note that this style looks most modern when worn with the least affect—so exchange the briefcase and jacket for white sneakers and a sweater.
The Break
Roomy trousers call for a little slack. The hem should hit the point where the heel of your shoe meets the upper, about an inch from the ground. Tell your tailor you want a toe-to-heel break.
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Black
Black pants are the wardrobe staple that can take you from work to cocktails. Find a narrow-cut, lightweight wool pair and replace it once or twice a year if the color begins to fade.
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Gray
Slate wool trousers are timeless and masculine. Think of the crease as a line on a grid. It should bisect your leg and hit the center of your shoe.
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3:29pm
  
Filed under: style tips 
May 16, 2011
How Men Can Add Texture to Their Wardrobe

Tweed

Balance the uneven surface of a tweed jacket with the worn-in comfort of a chambray shirt and white jeans. A roped leather belt is both soft and polished—making it the perfect bridge between wool and cotton.

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Shearling

Nothing communicates rugged appeal quite like a coat lined in shearling. To keep from going full-fledged mountain man, avoid other bulky layers—and stick to a simple button-down and T-shirt.

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Herringbone

To offset the rigid pattern of a herring-bone overcoat, combine it with inviting underpinnings like a rumpled silk scarf, fine-wale cords, and suede boots. The mix of materials is smart, not pretentious.

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Denim

Double-dosing on denim is no longer taboo provided your jeans and jacket are dark-rinsed and a close—but not exact—color match. A buffalo-plaid vest acts as a striking counterpoint that punctuates the potentially one-dimensional appearance of the combination.

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Washed Cotton

The low-maintenance fabric isn’t just for summer, especially when worn in the form of a rumpled anorak. The jacket livens up the sweater-jeans pairing and—on blustery days—picks up where a loose knit leaves off, keeping the chill at bay.

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Wool

When you wear a nubby plaid tie, avoid competing fabrics and prints. A clean, military-inspired khaki shirt is a cool canvas for the prep-school standby.

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1:22am
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 16, 2011
Six Tips for Wearing a Pinstripe Suit

1. A three-piece pinstripe suit can be an imposing look. Add some levity with a gingham shirt in brick red.

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2. What separates this medium-hued gray suit from the typical Wall Street pinstripe is cut. Nipped at the waist, with slim lapels and a snug fit through the body, it has a shape that’s modern and stately.
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3. Stainless-steel watches help bring out pinstripes. For navy suits, stick with cream-colored faces; black faces look best with gray.
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4. The classic black suit is transformed with muted white pinstripes. Wear it with a gray tie, a white shirt, and a cotton pocket square.
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5. Bright-blue micro-stripes like these breathe life into a traditional navy suit. And here it’s okay to double-dose on the color. Wear a lighter blue shirt with spare white stripes, and try a patterned tie.
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6.
Pairing patterned shirts and ties with pinstripe suits doesn’t have to feel like doing calculus. Prints in combinations of blue, white, and maroon are fail-safe options under navy or gray suits. When it comes to the tie, pick one that either coordinates with the suit (navy with navy, gray with gray) or brings out the tone of the shirt.
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1:10am
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Yes, You Can Wear a Light-Colored Suit

Casual Linen
Not all linen suits are big-shouldered, dressy things designed for lawn parties and derbies. Some, like this dove-gray version—unstructured and unlined—can be worn to more casual events. Pair one with a white V-neck T-shirt, brown lace-ups or loafers, and nothing else.

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Modern
A pastel suit is generally inadvisable. But when the color is an extraordinarily pale blue, the material is smooth, paper-thin cotton, and the cut is slim, it can become a spring essential. Opt for no-nonsense underpinnings: a crisp white shirt and a black tie.

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Dressy Linen
An elegant linen suit should have the same qualities as a perfect gray-flannel one: high-cut shoulders, a narrow jacket, and slightly tapered pants. Treat it like you would its cold-weather counterpart and wear a white shirt, a gray tie, and a silver tie bar. The shoes you can switch—try white bucks. 
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Spring Pinstripe
Traditional pin-striped suits are too buttoned-up to wear during the warm months. But a lightweight one in tan-and-white-striped cotton—not seersucker—can stand in. Dress it up for a business meeting or a daytime wedding with neutral accompaniments like a light-gray shirt and tie.
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Chino
Just because you’re aiming for a springtime aesthetic doesn’t mean you have to wear light colors from head to toe. Try wearing a closely tailored chino suit with a dark madras shirt—as opposed to a bright or pastel one—and a shiny navy tie.
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11:55pm
  
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Birth of the Cool: 20 Black Style Pioneers

As we reported over on The GQ Eye, the sharp-dressed young gentlemen behind the blog Street Etiquette —Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs—recently launched a D.I.Y. photo project to commemorate Black History Month and the style legacy of men like Miles Davis and Sammy Davis Jr. We’re fans of the feature, and of the blog’s overarching appetite for figuring out what makes classic American style tick, and asked Joshua and Travis to collaborate with us on an expanded, more in-depth list. Here, then, a slideshow of the in-many-cases-unsung style heroes whose sartorial impact and influence reach way beyond the year’s shortest month—in the words of the Street Etiquette guys themselves.

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Johnny Hodges
1906-1970
Alto saxophonist, Duke Ellington Orchestra
Left: circa 1945

“You can tell he was in Duke Ellington’s band—meaning that he was an extremely well-dressed gentleman. But at the same time, Johnny was something of a rogue, and much more of a dandy than Duke himself. Check out the hat, and the bold, super-luxe suit… I think you could say Johnny was a counterpoint to Duke’s more subdued brand of elegance.”
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Dick Gregory
b. 1932
Stand-up comedian; civil rights activist
Left: circa 1964

“He was a brilliant comedian, but I think of him more as an icon of 1950s and ’60s American style—the width of his tie and lapels and the cut of his suit jacket are all very much of that era… which also means they’re very now. And today, as an older gentleman, he’s a pro at pattern mixing.”
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Richard Roundtree
b. 1942
Actor (best known for the Shaft movie series)
Left: circa 1970

“It’s the all-leather look—leather jacket, leather pants, leather driving gloves—and it says, I’m stylish, and don’t mess with me. That Black Panther vibe, a little bit. Some people take issue with blaxploitation stereotypes, but it was what it was—and many were proud to have an African-American playing an action hero who kicked butt and at the same time looked great.”
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Marvin Gaye
1939-1984
Singer and songwriter
Left: circa 1980

“Everyone’s wearing denim shirts these days, and I like to think Marvin has something to do with that. This is a true workwear look he’s pulling off here—vintage Americana, the stuff everyone’s wild for now. He made denim-on-denim cool for us… and I love the way he contrasts it with the red knit hat.”
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Harry Belafonte
b. 1927
Singer, actor, civil rights activist
Left: 1969, London Heathrow Airport

“He was a calypso singer, and his style really incorporated the Caribbean vibe. He’d do things like leave two or three buttons undone on his dress shirts—laid-back, warm-weather stuff. Here he is in London, wearing a turtleneck under a suede overcoat, with houndstooth pants—amazing. He always put his own unique spin on everything.”
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Jean-Michel Basquiat
1960-1988
Artist
Left: 1986, New York

“A plaid shirt with a striped coat; that may contradict some people’s ideas of what ‘correct’ pattern mixing is, but he’s pulling it off. He expressed himself in his personal style as strongly as he did in his paintings. And as a graffiti artist, he was influenced by the streets: not too tailored, but always showing people that he knew how to dress.”
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Sidney Poitier
b. 1927
Actor, director, writer
Left: circa 1970

“Seeing A Raisin in the Sun, with Sidney as Walter Lee Younger, was a pivotal style moment for us—he was just such a sharp individual. The way he’d tuck his polo shirts into his trousers…sharp. His style was about simplicity, and keeping things clean-cut. And he could pull off an amazing slim suit. I think he was the first black actor who made people think, Wow, this guy is no joke."
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Vivien Thomas
1910-1985
Surgeon
Left: circa 1970

“We know about him because Mos Def played him in a TV movie we saw [Something the Lord Made, 2004]. There aren’t many photographs of him out there, unfortunately. He was a physician, so there was a conservative thing going on with his look. But he still brought a fantastic amount of style to his profession—the bold glasses, and the short, shaped mustache. Very distinguished looking, with the pipe. You can tell the man knew how to age with dignity.”
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Teddy Pendergrass
1950-2010
Singer, songwriter
Left: circa 1970s

“One of the best soul singers ever, and a loud, passion-driven character. His music screams at you; it’s like, wow, this guy was really passionate about turning down the lights and spending time with his girl! His style was really related to that whole psychedelic, ’70s vibe, but he’d also go sharp and classic: check out the wide-lapeled, cream-colored suit, the tassel loafers with wingtip details, the way he crosses his legs. And his beard and hair sort of give the whole look a jolt of attitude.”
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Huey P. Newton
1942-1989
Co-founder and leader of the Black Panther Party
Left: July 1967

“Huey was a rebel in his own right. He and the Black Panthers did all-black-everything way before Jay-Z. They made a hard-hitting style statement without trying too hard, through subversive little twists on the classics: like this white button-down-collar shirt peeking out from under a high-cut black leather blazer.”
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Bill T. Jones
b. 1952
Choreographer, dancer, director
Left: October 2009, lecturing at Skidmore College

“The silhouettes of Jones’s looks really complement what he does as a dancer: the clothes are looser, more relaxed, all about movement. This photo’s a reminder that a cool hat can really add something to your style. And the all-black look, with the black eyeglass frames… You know he’s an artist, just by looking at him.”
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Richard Pryor
1940-2005
Stand-up comedian, actor, writer
Left: February 27, 1966, on The Ed Sullivan Show

“He mastered the art of storytelling through comedy; and the guy could make anyone laugh. But what he’s wearing here… This is serious stuff! He could’ve walked off a runway, in 2010. This is exactly the kind of thing I’d wear right now. Interesting how he’s wearing the sharply tailored suit with monkstrap shoes, rather than with wingtips or loafers… He’s speaking his own language here.”
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Matthew Henson
1866-1955
Arctic explorer
Left: date unknown

“Definitely not a lot of pictures out there of this guy, either, but this shot really blows us away. He’s an Arctic explorer, obviously, but he’s also got a pinky ring on. In other words, he’s incorporating his personal style into his occupation. This brings to mind hip-hop circa 2000, with guys wearing a lot of mink; but this is the real deal. No chains, no platinum—this was just keeping warm.”
http://www.gq.com/images/style/2010/02/black-history-month/bhm14-ernie-barnes.jpgErnie Barnes
1938-2009
Artist; professional football player (AFL: New York Titans, San Diego Chargers, Denver Broncos)
Left: in his L.A. studio, 1996

“Ernie Barnes’s best-known painting was Sugar Shack, which Marvin Gaye put on an album cover [I Want You, 1976]; the rap group Camp Lo, from the Bronx, referenced it on a cover, too [Uptown Saturday Night, 1997]. The colors in his paintings—they just pop out at you, and speak life. He’s a reminder that style isn’t always just about how you dress. You get the feeling that he channels so much of his into the work itself.”
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Otis Redding
1941-1967
Singer
Left: January 21, 1967, backstage at Hunter College, New York, NY

“You see photos of Otis, and he was just always so stylish; even if you don’t know who he is, you see a photo of him and think, there had to be something to this guy. I love the silhouette here. A double-breasted shawl blazer with a turtleneck underneath, and that overcoat. It looks like he just put on what he had and went with it. And a turtleneck—it’s a piece you either love or hate. Our next blog post is going to be about turtlenecks.”
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Sammy Davis Jr.
1925-1990 
Singer, dancer, TV and movie star
Left: May 3, 1966

“A sharp-dressed Rat Pack member, and an all-around stand-up guy. The first African-American to grace GQ's cover. He wore the kind of stuff we'd wear today: slim ties, tailored suit jackets, tapered pants. I love how unguarded and irreverent he is here, tap dancing on his hotel-room table, in a high-cropped one-button gray flannel suit and Beatle boots. He was never afraid to step outside of the box and do things his own way.”
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Gordon Parks
1912-2006
Photographer, director, journalist
Left: February 6, 1968

“He was his own Renaissance man: a photographer, film director, journalist. He wore the tools of his trade—like his camera, here—effortlessly, like they were wardrobe accessories. And he’s a testament to the power of the trench coat: put one on over a shirt and tie and you can look elegant and be totally comfortable at the same time. He always brought personality to being on the job.”
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Langston Hughes
1902-1967
Poet, writer, journalist
Left: circa 1950s

“A pivotal figure in the Harlem Renaissance, which is a major inspiration to us. I know A Dream Deferred from front to back. He always looked completely at ease in what he was wearing, whether it was a sharply tailored suit or the very cool combo here. He’s taking a workwear staple—a flannel shirt—and making it look really refined and elegant by tucking it in to a dressier pair of plaid pants. The poet at rest.”
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Duke Ellington
1899-1974
Composer, pianist
Left: circa 1925

“A lifetime of splendor. Duke always stuck to what he knew: a strong, confident look with lots of double-breasted, wide-lapeled suits and overcoats. The best-dressed jazz musician of all time, in my opinion. This is timeless style—you could wear anything Duke wore right now and look amazing.”
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Miles Davis
1926-1991
Trumpeter, composer
Left: April 20, 1953, New York

“He exudes that confidence and swagger that was characteristic of many of his peers on the scene, but puts his own twist on everything that was going on at the time. He’s really distinct from everyone on our list, and is the first man who came to mind when we started putting it together. We like that he wasn’t always suited up; he’d go casual, playing with scarves, with polo shirts, with khakis. And he evolved over time in a way you just couldn’t predict.”

11:19pm
  
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Check Your Neck: A GQ Dress-Shirt Primer

First Step: Get Measured
Even if you think you know your neck size, check the tape. And while you’re at it, get your arms measured, too. Dress shirts are sized by neck and sleeve measurements. Know yours.

Collar I.D.
There are plenty of collar shapes out there (see: ESPN). But these are the four modern ones you should stick to. And here’s why.

The Straight Point
Think superminimal American style, not the oversize, big-tie-knot Italian look.

http://www.gq.com/images/style/2010/03/drake-collars/collars-straight-point.jpgThe Spread
Got a Wall Street power suit? Pair it with a spread collar and a substantial tie.
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The Button-Down
The old-school, all-American look. Has never gone out of style and never will.
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The Semispread
Perfectly balanced. Not too wide or narrow. Not too hip or square.
http://www.gq.com/images/style/2010/03/drake-collars/collars-semispread.jpgThe Can’t Miss Collar—and How to Check for Fit
Our Favorite Style
We favor semispreads, because they’re the perfect compromise among all the options on the previous slide—and they’ll suit every face and style. Drake could wear this shirt to dinner or a meeting.

The Litmus Test
So your salesman has measured you and pulled a shirt you like. Great. Still, try it on. Make sure you can comfortably fit one finger between the collar and your neck. If two fingers fit, the collar’s too big.

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Stock Your Collar Tool Box
1. Collar Stays
They keep your collars neat and in place. Stays should come out before your shirts get laundered and go back in when the shirts return clean. Keep one set on your dresser and one in your Dopp kit.

2. Shout Advanced Ultra Gel
We all get it: that sweat stain on the inside collar. Brush this stuff over the stain before you toss your shirts in the laundry to kill the yellow.
http://www.gq.com/images/style/2010/03/drake-collars/collars-collarstays.jpgDon’t Let This Happen To You
Just because a shirt has a collar and long sleeves doesn’t make it a dress shirt. If you try to wear a tie with one of your fashionably rumpled weekend shirts, the result will be a cinched neck and flyaway collar points. Not cool.
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The Logic of Proportion: Small Collar? Skinny Tie
The size of your collar should sync up with the size of your tie. If you dig skinny ties with small knots, go for an equally small collar. And slim lapels on your jacket.
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Going Tieless
When suited up—but not knotted up—you need a stiffer collar that won’t slip under your jacket.
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9:36pm
  
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Pant Rise, Red Denim, The Right Collar and More Style Dilemmas, Solved

Photo: Everett Collection

Bogie lived in a high rise

Photo: Everett Collection

Can you explain the rise measurements on a pair of pants/trousers?
The rise is the distance between the seam at the crotch to the top of the waistline. Front and back rises (measuring the distance of the front and back sides of a pair of pants) will often be slightly different. Modern pants have a much lower rise than their ancestors causing me to look a little bit like Humphrey Bogart in my vintage suits with the belt line up by my navel. –Chris Wallace

I just bought a pair of gray suede dress shoes. Any tips on what I should wear with them?
The sun is shining, socks are disappearing and the footwear options, including your recently purchased suede gray pair, are expanding. As we’ve pointed out before, gray is a vastly underrated color for any kind of shoes. Whether these dress shoes are cap toe oxfords or country brogues you’ve got yourself many options. It being spring, I’d suggest looking to some colorful chinos–Nantucket reds, greens, and blues. Gray will play nicely off these brighter tones and let the primary colors do the heavy lifting of your ensemble’s color palette. That said, indigo and white denim would both pair nicely with these gray suedes. In fact, gray suede brogues have just jumped to the top of my shopping list. –Jared Flint

Got inspired by Gilt MAN to get a couple of white shirts tailor-made for my stint at a bank. Thing is, I’m not quite sure which kind of collar to choose without looking too formal or too casual. Also should shirts as such always have a left-breast pocket?
Never fear the collar, my friend. As the experts will tell you, nothing will do more to frame your face and give you a little bit of presence that a grown up collar. Also, we’re pretty casual around these parts so the left breast pockets are here and there, but I dare say that in a bank you will want a proper “dress” shirt, and those have no pockets at all. That being said, I will refer you to our step by step guide to picking out (and personalizing) your dream shirt. Chris Wallace

Are there any red pants for men?
I thought you’d never ask. Levi’s actually does a great pair of red denim in their slimmer 514 fit, while Cheap Monday covers just about every color under the sun in a variety of slims and straights. Of course, if you’re willing to venture beyond denim, your choices expand greatly. Dockers, Bonobos, and GANT Rugger all offer trousers in a range of reds from washed out wine to crimson blood. In fact, Bonobos hits Gilt MAN at noon on Tuesday, May 10th. It’s a great time to love cardinal. –Jared Flint

9:04pm
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Sex, Drugs, and Neckties

That’s right—the tie, yesterday’s symbol of conformity. As the working world goes increasingly casual, it’s the rebellious guys with attitude and serious style who are knotting up. We show you six who get it right—and how you can, too

1. Buck Tradition (Dress It Down)

"I like wearing a denim jacket with a tie, because you can’t tell what day of the week it is and you don’t necessarily know where I’m going. I hate being too polished or buttoned-up—I’m not a lawyer, and I don’t work on Wall Street."

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2. Wear the Only Man Jewelry You Need

When it comes to rings, necklaces, and bracelets, some guys can pull them off and some guys can’t. Hell, you don’t even really need a watch anymore—just use your BlackBerry. But anyone can wear a tie bar. Yes, it’s a nod to the suited American 1960s, but these days it’s more bad man than adman. You know, an affordable way to make your knotted-up look twice as spirited as the next guy’s. So what kind of tie bar should you buy? The classic, impossible-to-screw-up version is silver. But also consider gold or something a little more embellished, like the one Eddie sports on slide four.

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"My tie clip is vintage; I was given it along with a vintage cigarette case. My aesthetic is mod-inspired—all very clean and smart. The tie clip fits in with that, plus it keeps my tie in place. I wear it high enough so you can see it over the top button of my jacket."
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"I wear a tie bar in very dressed-up situations or very casual situations, like with my jeans. To me, a tie bar is just more sophisticated than overembellished cuff links, and it keeps my ties out of the chemicals and soldering flames I work with."
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3. Show ‘Em You’re a Business, Man (Not a Businessman)

I wear a coat and tie whenever I leave the house. I guess I believe in old-world formality. I think of Manet painting in his frock coat, or Hemingway in his tweed suits. That’s why I started dressing this way, anyway—but after a while, it just becomes what’s comfortable.”

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Going to the Source

Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg on How the Tie Got Its Swagger Back

"The way people dress is cyclical. The marks of rebellion and conformity flip-flop back and forth. For a long time, rebellion was a T-shirt and a trucker hat. Then, suddenly, that mess became conformity, and dressing up is now a way to differentiate yourself."

"You should think of a tie as a canvas—the one piece of a suit that can have color or fun or wit. A necktie can be bright pink or purple or have funny polka dots on it without being feminine."

"Plus, a skinnier tie just feels of-the-moment right now. It’s not too mainstream and not too traditional. And there’s less material, so there’s less potential for a color or pattern to feel garish or offensive."

4. Wear It Where They Least Expect It

"I own nearly one hundred ties. Wearing one is about respect. It takes no skill to be the bartender in the Guinness T-shirt and the backward baseball hat popping bottle caps, but the style of bartending we do comes from the nineteenth century, when mixology was born. There are culinary aspects to it, social aspects, gentlemanly aspects—and we like to give the whole experience. A necktie is a big part of that."

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5. Color Up

"It doesn’t matter who makes a tie—it’s about color and pattern. You want to offset the rest of what you’re wearing with colors that bring it all together."

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6. 3 Ways to Knot Up with Attitude

Twist It
In Milan, a rakish gent will twist the skinny length of his tie at the knot so that it runs alongside (instead of behind) the wider length.

Reverse It
You can also try tying the skinny length longer than the wider length. Yes, it’s affected. That’s the whole point.
Tuck It
If you’re feeling more military than Milan, tuck your tie between your third and fourth buttons. Think Sinatra and Clift in From Here to Eternity.

Five Labels We Love Right Now

1. Alexander Olch, $150.
Think of Alex Olch as the artisanal tiemaker. His narrow—but not too skinny—small-run ties are made of peculiar and natty fabrics, like tweeds and nubbly burlaps. For the dandy who doesn’t want to look like a relic.

2. The Hill-Side, $79.
The experimentalist of the group. You can identify Hill-Side by its straight-bottom ties with the trademark selvage edge, like the one on the hem of your jeans.

3. Gitman Vintage, $75.
This classic preppy New York shirting brand introduced ties for the first time when it underwent its revival in 2008.

4. Band of Outsiders, $135.
Band’s Scott Sternberg foresaw this whole skinny-tie trend and gave it a rolling start. Most Band ties sport a twisted take on traditionalism, like a classic repp tie with a hue you don’t expect, or the gray tie you see here, with its blocks of gradated color.

5. Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers, $125.
The ties in Thom Browne’s collection for Brooks Brothers boast all the attention to tradition—and detail—of T.B.’s suits.

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…And Three for Under $30

1. Topman
Whatever the tie trend of the moment, London-based Topman is on it, at extremely affordable prices.

2. Uniqlo
This rapidly expanding Japanese retailer sells basic, solid-color skinny ties as well as more whimsical numbers.
3. The Tie Bar
Go online for skinny ties in silk, knit, or wool for $15, as well as $15 tie bars so cool they’ve appeared on our cover.

8:52pm
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Yes, You Can Wear a Skinny Collar

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Style Tip
Your neckwear should follow the proportions of your collar: Skinny and medium ties are fine; biblike swaths of fabric are a no-go.

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The Changeup
A club collar is a great way to add an unexpected element to your style. Yes, its rounded corners are unconventional, and it won’t work for every guy (those with moon faces, beware). But when the color is understated and the pattern is subtle, it can impart freshness, making a point collar seem, well, square.
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7:24pm
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
Classic White Sneakers

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From Top: PF Flyers ($80), pfflyers.com. Adidas ($60), adidas.com/originals. Converse ($65), converse.com. Junya Watanabe ($375), 212-604-9200. Common Projects ($455), commonprojects.com. Creative Recreation ($295), cr8tiverecreation.com.

Go Bareback
The beauty of these shoes is that you can (and should) wear them without socks. That said, when bare feet meet leather in the height of summer, bad things can happen. Protect against odor and discoloration with sock liners.

Show Some Skin
When wearing pants like chinos, follow Thom Browne’s example and show a little skin, especially if your legs are tanned. With jeans, try not to reveal anything more than the bottom of your ankle bone.

Dress It Up
There’s a long-running debate over whether it’s appropriate to wear sneakers with a suit. In the case of these basic kicks the answer is yes, they go with pretty much everything (except white suits). Just be sure to keep the shoes simple and clean.

The Art of the Lace
Learn a new knot or two at fieggen.com/shoelace, a site that features more than 30 different lacing methods. We recommend the basic over under or the straight bar.

7:10pm
Filed under: STYLE TIP style tips 
May 15, 2011
The Pursuit Aesthetic: J.Crew Spring 2011 | Men's Collection

This afternoon it was back to Milk Studios for another look at the latest men’s collection from J.Crew. In attendance, of course, were Frank Muytjens, Jenna Lyons, and Jack O’Connor who, not surprisingly, have done another incredible job with J.Crew’s Spring 2011 menswear…

5:11pm
  
Filed under: style tips 
May 15, 2011
Details: Designer Eunice Lee Talks Wardrobe Essentials

Try stuff on. “One of the guys who helped me start the business flew up this weekend, and I was like, ‘These are the pants. You have to try them on.’ And he said, ‘I’m not a skinny-pant guy. I like my stuff baggy.’ I was like, ‘Just fucking try the pants on!’ and shoved him into the dressing room. And now he totally gets it. You have to try clothing on to know how it fits and feels.”

Chinos are your friend. “Anything you can wear denim with, you can wear chinos with. They’re not dress pants, they’re casual. That’s what’s so American about them.”

This is what you need in your closet. “A perfect white crewneck T-shirt. It should be slim but not tight, and a little longer than a regular undershirt. A pair of rigid indigo jeans, maybe with only one rinse. Chinos, of course. A vintage military jacket. A navy V-neck cashmere sweater. And a suit, fairly fitted, with a slim pant—that’s something you should spend money on.”

Getting dressed shouldn’t be hard. “Sometimes—and I say this a lot—I wish I were a guy. It’s the easiest freaking thing on the planet! Just keep it simple. If you’re really confused in the morning, just put on a pair of jeans and a white T-shirt. Think Paul Newman. You’re an American dude, you should dress like a dude. Jeans, T-shirt. Chinos, T-shirt. It’s so easy. Even on dressy occasions, you could be the coolest dude in the room by not being overly dressed up.”

There’s nothing wrong with wearing a uniform. “Men are handsome in uniform. A suit is a uniform. Military is a uniform. Why was that schoolboy-prepster thing so hot? Because it’s sort of a uniform.”

Go easy on the woodchopper look. “You have to do it within reason. Don’t go out and buy shit that you didn’t wear down yourself. That’s inauthentic. If you’re going to look like you chop wood, then you should be able to chop wood, start a fire, all those things.”

There are certain things every guy should be able to do. “A guy should know how to grill a steak. A guy should know how to put up shelves. I think it’s weird when a guy doesn’t know how to do that. Also, a guy should know good manners. Like, to open a car door, or the door to a restaurant. That’s what girls talk about, anyway.”


(Source: details.com)

4:34am
Filed under: style tips 
May 15, 2011
Business Wardrobe Under Budget

The Smart Black Suit

Black does mean business—assuming you work in a relatively creative field. Keep the underpinnings on the muted side and you’ll move effortlessly from the office into the evening.

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And Know What Goes with Black

Watch: As sleek and sophisticated as the suit itself. No unnecessary dials, no oversize face.

http://www.gq.com/images/slideshows/mens/standalone/gq/fashion/0309/business-suits/00002f.jpgCuff Links:Your cuff links should not be a novelty item—they should be functional. Stick to simple silver ones.
http://www.gq.com/images/slideshows/mens/standalone/gq/fashion/0309/business-suits/00003f.jpgShoes: You can never, ever go wrong with a black leather-sole lace-up. Slim—but not pointy—is what you want.
Shirt: Look for the Slim Fit style.

Glasses: Yes, throwback frames are a bold look. But they’re also an extremely cool and timely one. Go for it.

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The Distinguished Gray Suit

Your go-to suit for getting the job done. Mind you, it’s not a light, summery gray—nor a dark, sober charcoal—but right down the middle. Try it with a soft blue or pink shirt for a shot of color.

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And Know What Goes with Gray

Pocket Squares: A smart, easy way to punch up your outfit—as long as you keep the pocket square and not flowering out of your breast pocket.

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Tie: Your tie, at its widest point, should be about the same width as your lapels. So, slim suit = slim (but not superskinny) tie.
http://www.gq.com/images/slideshows/mens/standalone/gq/fashion/0309/business-suits/00009f.jpgSweater: For those brisk early-spring days, layer a dark solid sweater underneath your suit jacket and skip the overcoat.
http://www.gq.com/images/slideshows/mens/standalone/gq/fashion/0309/business-suits/00010f.jpgBelt: Simple and narrow. That’s all you need.
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Messenger Bag: Assuming you’ve got a real job—and why else would you be suiting up?—you need a somewhat serious bag. Meaning no beat-up canvas or vinyl. Choose leather.
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The All-Purpose Navy Suit

If you want to go dark—but not black—go navy, with or without the pinstripes. And if you want to add a dash of European elegance to your look, pair it with chocolate brown accessories.

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And What Goes with Navy

Trench Coat: It’s spring. Which means it’s going to rain. Which means you need a raincoat. Khaki and classic. Hard to go wrong.

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Money Clip: An unadorned silver money clip isn’t flashy. It’s a stylish, efficient way to contain your cash.
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Shoes: Wingtips are back in style, and they never look better than when they’re a rich brown. Wear them with your suits and your jeans.
Computer Case: Travel with your laptop much? Get a case. But nothing too techy—you don’t want to look like the I.T. guy.
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2:50am
  
Filed under: style tips 
May 12, 2011

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11:43pm
Filed under: style tips